Hi this is my first thread on here so I figured what better than throwing up my build, after looking at a lot of the builds on here one word I come up with is epic hats of to the lot of you as It is a daunting task for any one as there is so much involved and so much that can go wrong.
As for me Iv'e done what ever I could do my self to save money like removing turbo fitting bigger coils stripping interior but mostly I've gotten chasers down here in Melbourne to take care of the work and there engine builder which is top torque, and one of the owners of chaseres is my long time tuner Paul Flourentzou
So engine is a 93 Ej20 RS liberty factory closed deck block sleeved to 2.5+ using 030-300 darton flanged jobbies
Here's some picks i took today my builder was very pleased with the result f@#!%ked if i know whats good or not lol.
this last pic shows how well the top of the sleeves fit the deck.
And the final product
Here's my sleeved block very happy with the work from the boys at top torque and how very open they are to the whole build process.
Engine specs:
Billet je 100mm pistons so almost a 2.6
Argo I beam rods
Cosworth intake manifold
Cosworth phenolic deletes
Cosworth oil pump 12mm
ATI super damper
V7 crank triger
Manley dual shot billet crankshaft
Race conrod and main bearings
Complete genuine gasket set
Gates race timing belt
Complete timing kit
ARP custom age head stud kit ARP claim that they are better than the L19 studs.
ARP rod bolts
MLS-R head gaskets
Heads are V7 with avcs activated
With a set of kelford 272 cams 11mm lift
BC cam gear set
BC titanium retainers
BC springs
full port job
standard valves
WRX/STi 97-07 High Capacity Alloy Race Sump Stage 3 For my Perrin EL headers

Exhaust: As stated above I'm using SS single scroll Perrin EL headers along with a SS magnaflow twin outlet muffler and a standard mild steel 3" exhaust, SS high flow cat SS custom 3" dump for twisted set up danny at springy motors did the twisted set up and fitment of the turbo
Induction: First and for most gota go a good fmic so when I was in Brisbane on a holiday a few years ago I popped in and met Richard the owner of A.R.E they do all sorts of funky alloy radiators fmic's ect..ect.. and he put me onto a tube 'n' fin cooler with an adrad core 600x300x75, which Iv'e fitted my self to the car in the inverted set up to dramatically reduce piping length now.
Since I'm going to be using the car as a daily for now and love hill climbs type of racing mostly with some drags and the odd track days nothing serious open fun days mostly,the turbo Iv'e gone for is an sti gold turbo from a local guy I know well Kyp from atp in Murrumbeena victoria
which is like 15 min from home and if I need to get something done fast then he is more than happy to help since my car will be a promo for his new sti gold huffer that helps
Specs and pics as follow:
Just thought i'd show some pics of my turbo wheels before kyp put it together this is alot of the reason iv'e decided to go with a local turbo guy
as i'm able to get a closer look of the thing before i buy it, and the fact of the billet 22g & ceramic bb design also he ported and polished in side the turbine not sure how much you can see in these pics from my Iphone but he got right inside

Comes with the 080 T/Hsg Std Bolt Pattern
MHI TD06 Style Comp Cover 3"or 2.75" Intake mine is 3" of course
TD06SL2 Style 11 Blade Turbine Wheel 8cm
22G MFS Comp Wheel (Machined From Solid) Billet
Special Design Brg Hsg Using Ceramic Ball Bearings
Also comes with 1.2bar Actuator as standard option
And fitted in an ultra low:twisted: mount set up
here's some pics also initially the fuel rail was fowling the turbo entry and that now has been sorted


Fuel will be strictly E85 from the united servos as I live 5 min from one and there's plenty around the Melbourne now oh and a pair of 20LT jerry cans and at least one is always full
So my set up is an in tank walbro feeding a 3LT surge tank in my spare wheel well hidden under an alloy lid with a thick rubber seal and perspex window so I can view the surge tank and pumps without unbolting the lid very very quiet with this set up indeed! I'm also using twin 044 bosch pumps and speed flow non return valves fitted for added safety and teflon lines which run to a speed flow y fitting.
Which then runs a half inch teflon main fuel line through the car to the earls filter in the engine bay then another y fitting sends of the other teflon lines to the Aeromotive fuel rails which in tern feed my BAD BOY ID: top feed injectors and SX dual entry FPR

car Idles and starts perfectly.
Here's a lot of pics so beware

Earls fuel filter
Dual relays with 30 amp fuses Iv'e since up graded to larger gauge wiring to be safe
Hi here's the finished fuel setup and the guy who did the surge tank also did the mounting of it which i havn't got pics as yet but he also did the lip with it's pespex window so i can view the pumps and surge tank for leaks

also checked the fuel pressure and when i was only running the walbro it was on 29 psi at idle and now it's sitting bang on 38psi at idle so very nice
One thing i'm amazed at is how quiet the pumps are must be were they are and with the back seats in and the carpet and the custom lid in place with the dense rubber to seal the noise and possible smell which in one of the pics you can just see must all be helping to lower the noise

Here you can see the perspex looks very clear and i can see all the pumps and fittings very well.
here you can see that at the back the lid gose up and behind the lining were it is also bolted, and you can see the dense rubber seal also.
Here you can see how stealth my idea is and why i decided to do it, and i can still place things in the boot even sit a spare wheel over the wheel well as the lid is more than strong enough to handle it.
Here's the half inch teflon fuel line and wiring going along the standard fuel lines.
Finally this is a support that i asked to be put in so i can still put things on top of the lid, i'll also be making a mount of to the side for the spare wheel, for the longer trips like when i go jet skiing will need to have a spare then

Brains and ignition:
Plug 'n' play link G4 ecu, and a black edition AVCR ebc, and Ice ignition race series coils, and 9mm custom race leads, to fit subbie heads did all the the custom in guard fitting of these 4 big coils put 2 coils in each of the front guards and ran the leads through to the engine bay.
Heres the leads and my coils I fitted
Lots of pics sorry
this is the other side with coolant bottle re located to a lower position just above fog light


Brakes and wheels:
Say no more
Also have braided lines all round
Love these rims my son found a pic of them on the net as he loved them and as soon as I saw them I knew they were the ones RE30 forged volks 17x8's off set 44
with some pirelli p7's mostly for the street not sure on the track tyre yet??
Gear box and rear diff:
02 sti 6mt with suertrak front lsd,clutch is an exedy don't know much about it as it's through a guy who told me this is what he will be using for 350kw atw and it's to his specs cost me 1100 bucks with the flywheel as well, rear diff is a cusco plated 2 way R160 with the RS 3.9 ratio see how well it holds up might need to go an R180 later with albin custom rear shafts as for front shafts there the thicker CV'S found in the FWD units
Suspension: not much here as of yet will need to drive in anger around the hill climbs ect.. to see what is needed
I'm running pedders extreem coilovers adjustable height only and there about five years old but very low k's though work very well also upgraded to wrx 2.7 steering rack awesome indeed compared to old RS one also upgraded to sti alloy control arms and alloy end links and a whiteline tie rod end kit that's it for now on the handling side of things.
Here's some pics and alloy control arms are now in and found some nice sway bar links to make that possible:clap:
The alloy control arms are now in and found some nice sway bar links to make that possible.
think that's about it getting sick of typing
cheers wayne